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As it hits 95ºF/35ºC outside, two French spirits come to mind. One is absinthe—which can be delightfully cooling if you do the right things with it—and the other is Suze, which I permanently associate with a hot, wonderful visit to Languedoc many years ago. Turns out that, while Suze may be the big brand of French gentian aperitif liqueur, Salers is older, and Aveze is not to be discounted. I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that Auvergne has other regional producers, too. A few years ago, Wayne
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